Why compress LiFePO4 cells?
Understanding the Importance of LiFePO4 Battery Compression
Understanding the Importance of LiFePO4 Battery Compression
If you've recently purchased LiFePO4 batteries or are diving into the DIY world of battery packs, you've likely encountered the question: "Should I compress my LiFePO4 batteries?" With the growing popularity of DIY LiFePO4 battery projects, this question is becoming increasingly common. Battery compression, or lack thereof, can significantly impact the lifespan and performance of your battery pack.
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Understanding LiFePO4 Battery Compression
LiFePO4 battery compression involves securely binding multiple LiFePO4 cells together to prevent internal components from delaminating and suffering irreversible damage. This process is often referred to as a battery fixture by manufacturers. Given that LiFePO4 cells are usually sold individually, most DIY enthusiasts need to consider battery compression when assembling their packs.
Interestingly, many LiFePO4 battery manufacturers don&#;t specify whether compression is necessary, nor do they provide guidelines on how to do it. However, based on extensive testing and professional recommendations, it&#;s clear that compressing LiFePO4 batteries is highly beneficial.
How to Perform LiFePO4 Battery Compression
Before starting the compression process, it's crucial to balance the cells. After balancing, gather the necessary tools such as electrical tape, VHB tape, or hose clamps. You'll also need insulating boards and thin sponges (around 1-2mm thick).
Begin by arranging your LiFePO4 cells in the desired configuration, placing insulating sheets and thin sponges between each cell. Next, use the selected tools to securely bind the cells together. Once the cells are compressed, install the busbars or wires. Finally, place the entire battery pack into an appropriately sized insulated stand or container for the final compression. If you don&#;t have an insulated bracket, you can easily create one using a plastic plate, studs, and nuts.
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What Happens If You Skip LiFePO4 Battery Compression?
Neglecting LiFePO4 battery compression can lead to several issues, all of which stem from the risk of battery swelling:
-
Swelling Cells: Without compression, some cells may swell due to the internal pressure caused by repeated charging and discharging cycles. This swelling can severely degrade the performance of the entire battery pack.
-
Reduced Lifespan: Swelling can alter the internal structure of the cells, shortening the lifespan of individual cells and, consequently, the entire battery pack.
-
Busbar Deformation: Swelling increases the distance between cells, which can deform the busbars, disrupting the normal operation of the battery pack. In severe cases, it can even damage the battery terminals.
Conclusion
LiFePO4 battery compression is an essential step when assembling a battery pack, and it's best done right from the start. Attempting to compress the battery pack after it has already been in use is often too late, as the cells may have deformed over time, making effective compression impossible. Properly compressing your LiFePO4 battery pack from the beginning ensures a longer lifespan and better performance, giving you a more reliable and satisfying experience.
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The Question; Compression or not
As a DIY´er with too much spare time on my hand;
I am bulding a 12 VDC 320 Ah LiFePo4 based on 4 pcs 3,2 volt cells.
And the reason why would be to save some money.
My wild guess is that the cost will be aprox 1/3 of the price for a 300Ah ready made battery.
How ever; I would like a battery that looks "clean".
I dont want a battery with a look like a piece of something you find at the dumpster.
I am just out from this morning management project meeting about compression or not.
(Management consist of 1 person; ME...)
At this moment the vote went for NO compression.
- I believe compression would be kind of "finetuning". I dont have the tools to do that kind of accurate adjustments.
- Dont think my ready made of the shelf 12V 200 AH battery (bought for big bucks from a local store) got any compression (have not looked inside)
- Add lifetime? The seller claim cycle. That would be 16 years. In 16 years () I probably got new hobbies.
- A set up with compression would add a lot of extra bits and pieces and most DIY solutions appear like a sputnik satellite.
Until I do get the "aureka" moment I will continue without compression.
What would you do?
And why?
The sun is back for the season. Thank you guys for your comments....
This is my first DIY LiFePo4 build ever.
Earlier experience is ready made batteries only.
I have ordered my 320 Ah cells, but not yet received any.
I guess the draw of A´s will be contributing to the swelling of my cells.
During a abnormal day there will be a charging at maybe 30A. (Max)
A typical continuous draw will be at 5A...
Every 3. or 5. day I will switch on my inverter.
The inverter I will limit to watts... for 5-10 minutes.. let say 15 minute
The inverter will be protected with a 150A fuse.
I would guess that them 150 watts would be the main contributor for swelling.
Your experience?
I am building my battery in tight fit a enclosure made from wooden sheets.
At this moment I got a 12 mm sheet at home.. so 12 mm it will be.
I will not use no treaded rods, springs or any other adjustment devices for compression.
The enclosure will be a tight fit, tight enough that the cells wont move.
Not compressed, but tight enough that any expansion will think twice.
From a number of DIY`ers we have seen that the cells might swell and retract again
For that reason I was hoping to get hold of the busbars that has a "flex zone"
This to protect the internal mechanics.
The cells will then be able to move slightly without causing any damage.
Sounds good?
Some suppliers provide data sheet with number of cycles.. or life time....
If we do some research; maybe we will find numbers for uncompressed... and compressed set ups.
Extreme case would be 1 cycle every day... then we are talking about years.
And if we are in the range of 10-15 years of a uncompressed set up
Would I need to extend the batterylife with 2 years?
For the time being I am thinking I will not bother.
Why? In I got new hobbies, there are new technologies available...
The single cell casing.... extra isolation or not
If the exterior of the cell is same potential as one of the connection points.. the poles..
(probably the negative...but then again... chineese design)
of course it would be smart to isolate them cells from each other.
Placed next to each other them cells will touch... if the factory exterior plastic film open..
The two layer of blue plastic film is not good enough?
Would not be fun to release all them fury A´s. - yeah, them safety goggles could come handy
Probably I will add extra insulation..... its easy
My DIY battery build will be installed in a trailor.
The trailor will be towed behind my motorhome.
Most of the time it will be towed in a developed part of the world.
In Europe we got good asphalt... (most of the time)
But of course... it will be vibrated.
But so would my of the shelf 12 V LiFePo4 battery bank in my motorhome.
Should I really worry?
Replacing management? You sounds like my wife
Another sunny day is emerging in northern Europe.
in particular, I would be careful about using threaded rods and nuts for compression and &#;gently snugging&#; them down. The force multiplier of nuts on threads can put a tremendous compression force without using a wrench. Now factor in the cells may crown like a slightly overfilled waterbed and the compression box is flat and you have another force multiplier of only contacting on a tiny patch in the center of the battery. Could be a &#;s of lbs right there, or more, or less. Hard to say.
a solid plywood box, some wood screws holding it together, some plastic between the cells. Prob good. I went with neoprene between the cells as they are not a machined flat surface , but a landscape of &#;looks flat from 10&#; away&#;. The wood protects from damage, the screws apply gentle compression, something between the cells for insulation and allow the uneven surfaces to mate. Do a good job on contacts and bussbars so you don&#;t have to be in there again and Don&#;t forget a nice cover to keep accidental discharges at bay. It is awkward to call this compression. It should be considered restraint. If the cells swell much, they can not be compressed back to good.
With most LiFePo cells such as CALB with plastic cases. New unswelled cells must be restrained, prevented from swelling while being charged. I would not use any foam plastic between the cells as there is a question of movement as well as low ignition temperatures of the foam..
There is no fancy torque setting. There is a plate on the side of the battery, a plate on the other side, and 3 or more threaded rods on each side of the plates. I use 1/4 aluminum or SS plate. Bring the cells into firm contact between the plates, holding them together with the rods with nuts. Using Ny-Lock nuts everything will be fine, as far as restraint from swelling. It would not hurt to torque each nut to some shared value, as that is always "Good Practices". That can be done with the same inch/pound tool as you must use on the terminals.
Protection from short circuits is a different subject and must be prefect. Keep the metal below the top of the cell cases and covered with electrical insulation along the top if there is any possibility of negative and positive coming into contact.
That might be fun on the Fourth of July, Bastille Day, Or other High Holidays. "Restriction" sounds reasonable,
and I believe I will achieve this by making a tight fit in a rigid 12 mm enclosure.
and from your comments I do this when the batteries are in a low charge.
Compression or applying any force does not sound like a good idea for me.
As mention earlier I already got two "off the shelf" 12 V 100 Ah LiFePo4 prismatic batteries with Bt and Heating elements.
We got a saying "you get what you pay for", and I payed top ?? for them batteries....
The word on the street between the one salesman is that the brand is best there is on the marked in our part of the world.
The exterior of the LiFePo4 batteries enclosure is the same as my AGM leisure battery.
Them LiFePo4´s are made to replace the GEL or AGM in a typical European motorhome or van.
I did fit both in parallel in my van.
I would be tempted to sacrifice one of them expensive batteries and open to look inside.
What do the "professionals" do inside their up scale batteries?
I would be very supriced if I found any treaded rods or similar.
Anyone opened a good quality battery.. just driven by curiosity?
What do the professionals do in their batteries? When in doubt: Read the cell manufacturer's specs/guidelines & comply with them to the maximum extent practical.
Pages 2, 3 & 4 of the 3/23/ LF280K specs state "under 300±20kgf, 30%&#;40%SOC" & "Under the 300kgf clamp" but there are no similar entries without that force applied. It seems clear to me that the manufacturer intends for these cells to be constrained by something stiffer than their very thin aluminum casings.
Though not mentioned in this spec., previous specs indicated that these cells gain about 0.5mm thickness between 30%-40% SOC & 100% SOC. That's typical, and easy to accommodate, especially if the operational temperature is kept reasonably close to the specified 25°C.
It is simple to build a container of the appropriate size to incorporate foam or very soft rubber isolators of the appropriate thickness & stiffness* to provide '300kg clamp force' (which works out to only about 12 psi) fairly evenly over the large & not-perfectly-flat sides of the cells, as they expand & contract slightly, while leaving the terminal center-to-center spacing unchanged. These also provide some vibration isolation & shock absorption, which is important in vehicular applications.
Given that the manufacturer's specs indicate that at 25°C cycle life is &#; but at 45°C cycle life is reduced to less than half that, temperature control may be a bigger priority if the the pack is going to be used in high temperature environment. If that requires active cooling between the cells, it might be necessary to use something besides foam or rubber to provide the 300kg clamp force.
* i.e.: so that the intended pressure of around 12 psi is maintained over the very small change in thickness caused by cell expansion. The first time I built an engine as an apprentice, I wanted to Do all the hot mods to it. Bigger cylinders, cams, high volume oil pump, compression bump&#;
my mentor wouldn&#;t let me, even though I was more than able to execute it correctly. He said
&#;frost you learn to play by the rules, then you learn to break the rules&#;.
followed by a discussion of the manufacturer&#;s decisions to make it That way which is a series of compromises made by talented engineers. You can make different compromises, once you understand Why they did it the way they did.
compression is a factory recommendation, these are not Diy batteries, these are made for companies to build batteries from, including proper fixturing, bussing, safety measures and such. unless we begin to approach the knowledge of the engineers who are the intended clientele, we should simply follow the set forth protocols of best practices.
yes they work without compression, or wrapped in tape, but that is a compromise for simplicity and economy with different results than a properly engineered and built enclosure.
this is a roll your own kind of place, we share knowledge and do what we feel is the best compromise for our own use, at our own expense, at our own risk. My answer is different from your answer, because I chose different compromises. As noenegdod said above, do what you can. I Would add, do so carefully, with much thought and research.
Now put them in a mobile application and your chances of issues goes way up, these cells have a lot of mass and will move around in a mobile application. Add expansion on top of that and the possibility of putting too much pressure on the cells when they expand in a fixture that is too ridged.
I decided for me using die springs I could get the most clamping force I could to restrain the cells without too much pressure when fully charged. I am using four cells so 160lb die springs are perfect to get me just below 12psi and not go over the 17psi max when fully charged.
My system is a little different I will have twelve 12 volt 280ah four cell batteries, this is a combination stationary/mobile application. All the batteries mount the same on vibration dampers. I have two on my work truck with 100amp charging circuit and will have a cradle for 8 stationary in my garage. They will all be built the same and be easy to move between the truck and house if needed.
The truck will have one Outback VFXR watt inverter and the house will get two of them, the system should be pretty resilient and can absorb some failures and still be functional.
Compression or not?
I have been watching some disassembly videos;
Videos showing new batteries...taken apart just to look inside;
Have yet to see treaded rods or other components for compression purpose.
Most probably I have not seen all them videos, but I have seen a few.
Seen no rods.. no springs.. no nuts.. no nada
Yes I do know that some manufacturers got some lines about compression in their datasheets.
But then again; others dont. Some of them dont now the meaning of the word compression.
Me on mounting batteries in a moving vehicle;
I already got two factory batteries moving around in my van.
Van moving... and batteries moving and shaking with it.
Them batteries are mounted under one of the seats.
If any of them expensive batteries do funny shit; JUMP!
Good insurance is a key word.
But my experience so far is that I can trust them batteries.
My DIY home brew will probably be in mounted on a trailor.
(I say probably because every now and then new ideas emerg)
More specific it will be mounted in a protective aluminum enclosure (truck bed tool box)
Inside there will be a tight fit box made from 12 mm wood. (1/2")
The final box will be in the front of the trailor, near the trailor hitch.
If any issues lets hope its possible to unhitch the trailor from the van... in a hurry.
Have faith in the many brothers and sisters out there.
Might be many of them got a lot of skills related to wires and amps.
People who buy a set of LiFePo4 battery cells most probably got some basic skills.
I do believe they got enough skills to know that them blue boxes could be som fury bastards if provoked.
I do believe they know the importance of thickness of wires and suitable fuses.. and were to place them fuses.
I do have faith in most of them DIY´ers playing with LiFePo4 cells.
Another beautiful sunny moring in northern Europe.
I am bulding a 12 VDC 320 Ah LiFePo4 based on 4 pcs 3,2 volt cells.
And the reason why would be to save some money.
My wild guess is that the cost will be aprox 1/3 of the price for a 300Ah ready made battery.
How ever; I would like a battery that looks "clean".
I dont want a battery with a look like a piece of something you find at the dumpster.
I am just out from this morning management project meeting about compression or not.
(Management consist of 1 person; ME...)
At this moment the vote went for NO compression.
- I believe compression would be kind of "finetuning". I dont have the tools to do that kind of accurate adjustments.
- Dont think my ready made of the shelf 12V 200 AH battery (bought for big bucks from a local store) got any compression (have not looked inside)
- Add lifetime? The seller claim cycle. That would be 16 years. In 16 years () I probably got new hobbies.
- A set up with compression would add a lot of extra bits and pieces and most DIY solutions appear like a sputnik satellite.
Until I do get the "aureka" moment I will continue without compression.
What would you do?
And why?
The sun is back for the season. Thank you guys for your comments....
This is my first DIY LiFePo4 build ever.
Earlier experience is ready made batteries only.
I have ordered my 320 Ah cells, but not yet received any.
I guess the draw of A´s will be contributing to the swelling of my cells.
During a abnormal day there will be a charging at maybe 30A. (Max)
A typical continuous draw will be at 5A...
Every 3. or 5. day I will switch on my inverter.
The inverter I will limit to watts... for 5-10 minutes.. let say 15 minute
The inverter will be protected with a 150A fuse.
I would guess that them 150 watts would be the main contributor for swelling.
Your experience?
I am building my battery in tight fit a enclosure made from wooden sheets.
At this moment I got a 12 mm sheet at home.. so 12 mm it will be.
I will not use no treaded rods, springs or any other adjustment devices for compression.
The enclosure will be a tight fit, tight enough that the cells wont move.
Not compressed, but tight enough that any expansion will think twice.
From a number of DIY`ers we have seen that the cells might swell and retract again
For that reason I was hoping to get hold of the busbars that has a "flex zone"
This to protect the internal mechanics.
The cells will then be able to move slightly without causing any damage.
Sounds good?
Some suppliers provide data sheet with number of cycles.. or life time....
If we do some research; maybe we will find numbers for uncompressed... and compressed set ups.
Extreme case would be 1 cycle every day... then we are talking about years.
And if we are in the range of 10-15 years of a uncompressed set up
Would I need to extend the batterylife with 2 years?
For the time being I am thinking I will not bother.
Why? In I got new hobbies, there are new technologies available...
The single cell casing.... extra isolation or not
If the exterior of the cell is same potential as one of the connection points.. the poles..
(probably the negative...but then again... chineese design)
of course it would be smart to isolate them cells from each other.
Placed next to each other them cells will touch... if the factory exterior plastic film open..
The two layer of blue plastic film is not good enough?
Would not be fun to release all them fury A´s. - yeah, them safety goggles could come handy
Probably I will add extra insulation..... its easy
My DIY battery build will be installed in a trailor.
The trailor will be towed behind my motorhome.
Most of the time it will be towed in a developed part of the world.
In Europe we got good asphalt... (most of the time)
But of course... it will be vibrated.
But so would my of the shelf 12 V LiFePo4 battery bank in my motorhome.
Should I really worry?
Replacing management? You sounds like my wife
Another sunny day is emerging in northern Europe.
I think you should replace the project management team. If these cells will go in a mobile they should be compressed, if only to eliminate the stress on the cell terminals. You don't need to high end tools to make a compression fixture. Put something together that is snug enough to hold the cells together when you lift the fixture, but not so tight that the cells are crushed. The cells are pretty strong so crushing them would require you to be really stupid when applying torque.Oh noes, did you just assume everyone here isn&#;t stupid? the &#;oh crap my battery caught fire&#; threads are entertaining.
in particular, I would be careful about using threaded rods and nuts for compression and &#;gently snugging&#; them down. The force multiplier of nuts on threads can put a tremendous compression force without using a wrench. Now factor in the cells may crown like a slightly overfilled waterbed and the compression box is flat and you have another force multiplier of only contacting on a tiny patch in the center of the battery. Could be a &#;s of lbs right there, or more, or less. Hard to say.
a solid plywood box, some wood screws holding it together, some plastic between the cells. Prob good. I went with neoprene between the cells as they are not a machined flat surface , but a landscape of &#;looks flat from 10&#; away&#;. The wood protects from damage, the screws apply gentle compression, something between the cells for insulation and allow the uneven surfaces to mate. Do a good job on contacts and bussbars so you don&#;t have to be in there again and Don&#;t forget a nice cover to keep accidental discharges at bay. It is awkward to call this compression. It should be considered restraint. If the cells swell much, they can not be compressed back to good.
With most LiFePo cells such as CALB with plastic cases. New unswelled cells must be restrained, prevented from swelling while being charged. I would not use any foam plastic between the cells as there is a question of movement as well as low ignition temperatures of the foam..
There is no fancy torque setting. There is a plate on the side of the battery, a plate on the other side, and 3 or more threaded rods on each side of the plates. I use 1/4 aluminum or SS plate. Bring the cells into firm contact between the plates, holding them together with the rods with nuts. Using Ny-Lock nuts everything will be fine, as far as restraint from swelling. It would not hurt to torque each nut to some shared value, as that is always "Good Practices". That can be done with the same inch/pound tool as you must use on the terminals.
Protection from short circuits is a different subject and must be prefect. Keep the metal below the top of the cell cases and covered with electrical insulation along the top if there is any possibility of negative and positive coming into contact.
That might be fun on the Fourth of July, Bastille Day, Or other High Holidays. "Restriction" sounds reasonable,
and I believe I will achieve this by making a tight fit in a rigid 12 mm enclosure.
and from your comments I do this when the batteries are in a low charge.
Compression or applying any force does not sound like a good idea for me.
As mention earlier I already got two "off the shelf" 12 V 100 Ah LiFePo4 prismatic batteries with Bt and Heating elements.
We got a saying "you get what you pay for", and I payed top ?? for them batteries....
The word on the street between the one salesman is that the brand is best there is on the marked in our part of the world.
The exterior of the LiFePo4 batteries enclosure is the same as my AGM leisure battery.
Them LiFePo4´s are made to replace the GEL or AGM in a typical European motorhome or van.
I did fit both in parallel in my van.
I would be tempted to sacrifice one of them expensive batteries and open to look inside.
What do the "professionals" do inside their up scale batteries?
I would be very supriced if I found any treaded rods or similar.
Anyone opened a good quality battery.. just driven by curiosity?
What do the professionals do in their batteries? When in doubt: Read the cell manufacturer's specs/guidelines & comply with them to the maximum extent practical.
Pages 2, 3 & 4 of the 3/23/ LF280K specs state "under 300±20kgf, 30%&#;40%SOC" & "Under the 300kgf clamp" but there are no similar entries without that force applied. It seems clear to me that the manufacturer intends for these cells to be constrained by something stiffer than their very thin aluminum casings.
Though not mentioned in this spec., previous specs indicated that these cells gain about 0.5mm thickness between 30%-40% SOC & 100% SOC. That's typical, and easy to accommodate, especially if the operational temperature is kept reasonably close to the specified 25°C.
It is simple to build a container of the appropriate size to incorporate foam or very soft rubber isolators of the appropriate thickness & stiffness* to provide '300kg clamp force' (which works out to only about 12 psi) fairly evenly over the large & not-perfectly-flat sides of the cells, as they expand & contract slightly, while leaving the terminal center-to-center spacing unchanged. These also provide some vibration isolation & shock absorption, which is important in vehicular applications.
Given that the manufacturer's specs indicate that at 25°C cycle life is &#; but at 45°C cycle life is reduced to less than half that, temperature control may be a bigger priority if the the pack is going to be used in high temperature environment. If that requires active cooling between the cells, it might be necessary to use something besides foam or rubber to provide the 300kg clamp force.
* i.e.: so that the intended pressure of around 12 psi is maintained over the very small change in thickness caused by cell expansion. The first time I built an engine as an apprentice, I wanted to Do all the hot mods to it. Bigger cylinders, cams, high volume oil pump, compression bump&#;
my mentor wouldn&#;t let me, even though I was more than able to execute it correctly. He said
&#;frost you learn to play by the rules, then you learn to break the rules&#;.
followed by a discussion of the manufacturer&#;s decisions to make it That way which is a series of compromises made by talented engineers. You can make different compromises, once you understand Why they did it the way they did.
compression is a factory recommendation, these are not Diy batteries, these are made for companies to build batteries from, including proper fixturing, bussing, safety measures and such. unless we begin to approach the knowledge of the engineers who are the intended clientele, we should simply follow the set forth protocols of best practices.
yes they work without compression, or wrapped in tape, but that is a compromise for simplicity and economy with different results than a properly engineered and built enclosure.
this is a roll your own kind of place, we share knowledge and do what we feel is the best compromise for our own use, at our own expense, at our own risk. My answer is different from your answer, because I chose different compromises. As noenegdod said above, do what you can. I Would add, do so carefully, with much thought and research.
The first time I built an engine as an apprentice, I wanted to Do all the hot mods to it. Bigger cylinders, cams, high volume oil pump, compression bump&#;I don&#;t think enough people building these batteries have a good appreciation for how much energy these larger cells hold, and how bad things can get in a hurry.
my mentor wouldn&#;t let me, even though I was more than able to execute it correctly. He said
&#;frost you learn to play by the rules, then you learn to break the rules&#;.
followed by a discussion of the manufacturer&#;s decisions to make it That way which is a series of compromises made by talented engineers. You can make different compromises, once you understand Why they did it the way they did.
compression is a factory recommendation, these are not Diy batteries, these are made for companies to build batteries from, including proper fixturing, bussing, safety measures and such. unless we begin to approach the knowledge of the engineers who are the intended clientele, we should simply follow the set forth protocols of best practices.
yes they work without compression, or wrapped in tape, but that is a compromise for simplicity and economy with different results than a properly engineered and built enclosure.
this is a roll your own kind of place, we share knowledge and do what we feel is the best compromise for our own use, at our own expense, at our own risk. My answer is different from your answer, because I chose different compromises. As noenegdod said above, do what you can. I Would add, do so carefully, with much thought and research.
Now put them in a mobile application and your chances of issues goes way up, these cells have a lot of mass and will move around in a mobile application. Add expansion on top of that and the possibility of putting too much pressure on the cells when they expand in a fixture that is too ridged.
I decided for me using die springs I could get the most clamping force I could to restrain the cells without too much pressure when fully charged. I am using four cells so 160lb die springs are perfect to get me just below 12psi and not go over the 17psi max when fully charged.
My system is a little different I will have twelve 12 volt 280ah four cell batteries, this is a combination stationary/mobile application. All the batteries mount the same on vibration dampers. I have two on my work truck with 100amp charging circuit and will have a cradle for 8 stationary in my garage. They will all be built the same and be easy to move between the truck and house if needed.
The truck will have one Outback VFXR watt inverter and the house will get two of them, the system should be pretty resilient and can absorb some failures and still be functional.
Attachments
Since I was the one that raised the question in this tread;Compression or not?
I have been watching some disassembly videos;
Videos showing new batteries...taken apart just to look inside;
Have yet to see treaded rods or other components for compression purpose.
Most probably I have not seen all them videos, but I have seen a few.
Seen no rods.. no springs.. no nuts.. no nada
Yes I do know that some manufacturers got some lines about compression in their datasheets.
But then again; others dont. Some of them dont now the meaning of the word compression.
Me on mounting batteries in a moving vehicle;
I already got two factory batteries moving around in my van.
Van moving... and batteries moving and shaking with it.
Them batteries are mounted under one of the seats.
If any of them expensive batteries do funny shit; JUMP!
Good insurance is a key word.
But my experience so far is that I can trust them batteries.
My DIY home brew will probably be in mounted on a trailor.
(I say probably because every now and then new ideas emerg)
More specific it will be mounted in a protective aluminum enclosure (truck bed tool box)
Inside there will be a tight fit box made from 12 mm wood. (1/2")
The final box will be in the front of the trailor, near the trailor hitch.
If any issues lets hope its possible to unhitch the trailor from the van... in a hurry.
Have faith in the many brothers and sisters out there.
Might be many of them got a lot of skills related to wires and amps.
People who buy a set of LiFePo4 battery cells most probably got some basic skills.
I do believe they got enough skills to know that them blue boxes could be som fury bastards if provoked.
I do believe they know the importance of thickness of wires and suitable fuses.. and were to place them fuses.
I do have faith in most of them DIY´ers playing with LiFePo4 cells.
Another beautiful sunny moring in northern Europe.
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