Why is Baffle Plate Suppliers Better?

Use baffle plates to gain more controlled agitation, extend the life of the agitator and create peace of mind for the operator.

Please visit our website for more information on this topic.

With competitive price and timely delivery, SENLYON sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

Xylem&#;s top-entry agitators rotate in a clockwise direction (when looking from above the tank). Without interference, tangential velocities from the impeller(s) would typically cause the entire fluid mass in the tank to spin as a whole, with very little actual mixing taking place. It may look like good mixing, but seeing the fluid vortex all the way down to the impeller is deceiving. The reality is that very little shear is being produced. The particles are actually just spinning around more like in a centrifuge than a mixer (see Figure 1).

How Baffles Work

Baffle plates are long, flat plates mounted to the interior of a mixing tank such that they protrude inward toward the center of the tank to disturb the swirling fluid. They also force the liquid to move upward along the tank wall. Both actions improve mixing, and therefore the agitation process, by creating a &#;controlled chaos&#; of turbulences. It is not possible to load a mixer&#;s impellers properly, especially in low viscosity liquids, without baffles due to the spinning of the liquid and the lack of top-to-bottom movement. Baffle plates control the liquid more, from the top to the bottom of the tank, resulting in better mixing (see Figure 2).

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Baffle Plate Suppliers. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

carp said:

HeatsTwice said: Good catch. So far the ones I have installed have lasted all night without any signs of wear. They are as clean and "new" as when I put them in. That is there is no soot on them at all.

If you take them out, do they appear brittle? It's always hard to tell what is meant by "withstand temperatures to X". That could mean for it to still function in it's intended purpose. Just like it can only withstand 100 freeze thaw cycles.

I'd be very careful. Should they fail you may encounter a runaway fire. My baffles only leave a one inch wide opening at the glass to allow exit out the flue. Without them, that opening increases by a factor of 36 for me.


Now I wonder how they would perform wrapped in fiber blanket.

I havn't taken them out since they are well over 500 degrees right now. But I have poked them with a fire iron and the "sound" (thud) they make is the same as before I put them in.

BTW, I agree with your comment on the intended use. I am using Durarock for something it was not intended to be used for. But it "seems" to be working. That is, the temperature is well over 175 degrees, the baffles are still there, in one peice, clean, there is no smoke comming out of the chimney and the fire is burning down to the usual bed of coals without any unusual other type of activity occuring (yet).

When I empty the ashes next time (and the stove has cooled off) I will inspect the baffles and report my findings.

carp said:

HeatsTwice said: They are fragile to begin with but after 10-12 cords they do get banged up (two years after purchase). The sell for $65 from the manufacturer. They still can be used but I felt I would try out this Durarock idea.

I have a and the baffles are fragile. Touch them with wood while loading or anything else and pieces will come off them or they will gouge. I haven't even put 6 cords through mine in 3 years and they are about toast. You can see where there may have been holes in the mold to cast the baffles. They look like little plugs and are about to fall out making holes.

I will not be spending a single penny on a Napoleon baffle.

Since I have about 65sqft of durock in the garage I may also test it out. My stove cools every day while at work so I can put a durock in just one side and yank it every day to check on it.


The 175 Degree temperature limit I noted for Durock above was directly from the manufactures F.A.Q. for the product.

(broken link removed to http://www.usg.com/navigate.do?resource=/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/products/prod_details/DUROCK_Brand_Cement_Board.faq.html#N)

Hi,

I know how you feel. The baffles are very fragile and mine match the description you gave - pretty beat up.

With out a doubt, I think Napolean has done a fine job on my stove and, after exchanging emails with their engineering department on a separate subject I can tell they know what they are doning (or talking about). The stove has been great so far but being of scotish decent, I would always look for a pennyless work around. If Napoleon never got any repeat buisness from me or anyone else because the thing is so well built, their marketing department would have been fired (laid off) because the stove would sell itself. Selling replacement baffles must keep them in bread and butter.

So, now for the status of the Durock after two solid days of burning.

First I should say that I took the trivit off and with my infrared thermometer, measured the temp just below it. As usual (and those who know Napolean will already know this) the temperature was approx 900 degrees. I expect all sorts of yammering from everybody about the safty of this but for two years it has always been this temperature (even with the factory baffles) and others on this site have witnessed this independantly. The top plate of this stove is 1/4 steel. And yes I know that the manual says never run the stove hotter that 500 degrees when measured below the trivet. But this is practically impossible given the size of the fire box and I suppose it was put in the manual as a disclaimer.

So after over two solid days of high burn I let the stove cool and took out one of the Durock baffles. This is what I saw:

1) There was some "twist" warpage like that seen on an airplane propeller but not nearly as severe - maybe an 1/8th of an inch at most.
2) There where cracks here and there which did not compromise the structural integrety but it is conceivable that they could one day connect and crack the baffle in half. But I can see that if it did fail, it would do so in the "short length of the rectangle" direction, not the "long length of the rectangle". This means that if the baffle failed catastrophically it would do so in a way which was no worse than the way the factory baffles already had. That is, my factory baffles have holes knocked in them because they have been banged around from firewood insersion, which let hot air (plasma) escape from the fire box directly into the chamber above. These holes are in the direction of the "short side of the rectangle" and have not failed yet.
3) There is no discoloration on either side of the baffles. That is, they are exactly the same color now as they where when I first put them in. To me this interesting because if they where not burning of all of the soot on them by the intended "post burn" mechanism, they would have shown some discoloration by now.
4) There was no crumbling of the baffle even at the points where one may expect it (corners, edges experiencing the highest heat exposure, etc.).
5) Even though the fire had burned down to a very low level, The baffle was hotter than heck and I began to feel the heat of holding it through the welders gloves I bought at harbor freight and had to put it down very quickly.


I fully expect these baffles to fail in an amount of time which is far less than that of the factory provided baffles. But I can make them in 5 minutes and for about 75 cents.

If requested, I can post some pictures of the tested baffles. For now, at the very least, I would say that in a pinch such baffles are good enough to get you through until the manufacturer ships you new ones.